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In his work Nigerian artist Emeka Ogboh records the sounds of Lagos,
particularly focusing on the noise of danfo and molue buses, and installs
his soundscapes in the milieu of other cities. This essay examines the
political implications of this gesture. I argue that Ogboh's practice
doesn't just celebrate the vibrant urban sounds of Lagos but foregrounds
the medium of sound to reflect on the African city as a space historically
shaped by and entangled in economic, social, and cultural
interrelationships with the rest of the world.
Ogboh's sound
installations focus on Lagos—the city in which he
lives—exploring what the artist describes as its "history and aural
infrastructure." In galleries, he usually installs the work in booths where
audiences listen to the recordings through earphones. Sometimes he places
speakers and megaphones blaring with Lagos sounds in the streets of cities
such as Cologne or Helsinki in order to initiate dialogue on globalization,
migration, and multi-culturalism. One could read Ogboh's practice within
the context of Camerounian philosopher and critic Achille Mbembe's
Afropolitanism: a cosmopolitan understanding of Africa as a dynamic
cultural hybrid, a "world in movement." Afropolitanism describes Africa as
a product of continuous "itinerancy, mobility and movement" of diverse
peoples from all corners of the globe into and out of the continent and
within its geographical boundaries. Present day Africa is a mixture of
Asian, European, and indigenous peoples and cultures which have been in
political and economic interrelationships for millennia. Mbembe uses the
term "afropolis" to refer to major African cities such as Lagos, Cairo, and
Johannesburg, cosmopolitan spaces implicated in and shaped by complex,
skewed, and asymmetrical global flows of ideas, goods, capital, and people.
Following this framework, the essay examines how Ogboh inserts the sounds
of Lagos into the soundscapes of Western cities to highlight the
socio-political imbalances and contradictions of globalization, focusing on
two sound clips titled Lagos by Bus and the installation
Lagos Soundscapes in Cologne: Reception of Strangeness and Consumption
of Difference.
The Italian critic and curator Marco Scotini
observes that, due to globalization, "the city, and not the state, is the
strategic place of economic dynamics, migration, ethnic and cultural
change, and the demands of civil society." Lagos, which was once the
administrative capital of Nigeria, now its economic and cultural capital,
offers Ogboh an appropriate space for understanding the socio-political
dynamics between the south and the north in the globalized world. The
history of Lagos begins before the first Portuguese settlement in the
fifteenth century, but the city was also shaped by the trans-Atlantic slave
trade, colonization, post-colonial and neo-colonial cultural, political and
economic factors. For example, in its relatively recent economic history,
the Nigerian oil boom of the 1970s—whose tragedy continues
today—stimluated migration from rural to urban regions of the country
and also attracted migrants from the United States, Germany, and Japan to
Lagos making it a one of the richest, most populous and culturally diverse
metropolises in Africa. It is the idea of Lagos as a locus where myriad
cultures and variegated subjectivities intersect that underpins Ogboh's
practice.
Lagos is a metropolitan beast whose voice and soul
manifest themselves in a cacophony of roars and growls of blaring horns,
vehicles, rumbling electric generators, muezzins, street music, and rowdy
vendors clamoring to sell their merchandise. Through its sounds, Ogboh
manages to capture the Lagosian cityscape in its diversity and complexity.
But the work transcends merely recording and celebrating the sounds. From
such a diverse range of metropolitan sounds, Ogboh selects danfo and molue
noises and situates them at the centre of his poetics as a metaphor for
addressing issues of migration and related topics. This practice stems from
Ogboh's recognition that urban sounds are not neutral. Cultural theorist
Helmut Draxler points out that, like the tactile and the visual worlds, the
audible world is shaped by and politically implicated in capitalist
modernity. Urban sounds, from rumbling production machines to supermarket
muzak, are all products of capitalism. To an extent, therefore, Ogboh does
todanfo and molue sounds what artists such as the Beninian Romuald Hazoume
and the Ghanaian El Anatsui do to found products of African modernity such
as jelly cans and bottle tops.
Danfo and molue comprise Lagos's
major mode of transportation. Danfo, which means "hurry" in Yoruba, is the
local name given to the yellow Volkswagen minibuses of Lagos. Molue, which
has its roots in the English word "maul," are the locally fabricated
44-seat buses that ply the roads of the city. Danfo andmolue are ubiquitous
on the streets of Lagos and therefore contribute to the city's perpetual
traffic jams locally referred to as "go slows." The noise from danfo
andmolue horns and the verbal "maps" from their call boys pollute the
overcrowded streets of the city. Referring to the verbal route maps chanted
by bus conductors as a unique feature of the Lagos sound that particularly
drew his attention, Ogboh has stated that, "the verbal maps are the
acoustic cartographic mapping of Lagos by its bus routes and destinations,
and by bus conductors." In addition to the horns and the route chants, a
polyphony of dramas is enacted as Lagosians congregate in these overcrowded
buses in their daily journeys to and from work. Ogboh records the voice of
Lagos in this cacophony of bus horns, chanted route maps, and brawls. The
idea of the fast-paced city and its aggressive mercantilism are embedded in
the terms danfo and molue themselves, whose meanings conjure up the
polyglot spirit of the metropolitan jungle and its laws of survival, i.e.
"Just keep ramming on" to borrow from Lagosian street lingo.
An
eight minute and ten second clip entitled Lagos by Bus offers the
listener a detailed audio landscape of Lagos. In the clip the Pidgin
chatter of travelers intermingles with the clinking of beverage bottles,
music from a radio, and above all the pervasive and cacophonous hooting
from danfo and molue buses. The most discernible of the conversations in
Lagos by Bus is a pre-departure sermon and prayer by a peddler hawking
drugs for diabetes and glaucoma to commuters. Vendors in danfo and molue
buses are known to coax travelers with prayer to buy their merchandise. As
one listens to the sermon, the music in the background becomes discernible
as a popular song by the eminent late Nigerian musician Fela Kuti titled
"Coffin for Head of State." The song—which also starts as a desperate
prayer to Jesus Christ, Allah, and other deities for mercy—is also an
essay on the grim socio-political reality of Kuti's contemporary Nigeria.
"Coffin for Head of State," which was recorded after the Nigerian military
invaded Kuti's Kalakuta republic in 1977, narrates his personal ordeals
with the Nigerian government, and decries the wanton corruption, political
oppression, crime, and dehumanizing poverty across Africa.
Danfo
and molue embody the cosmopolitanism of Lagosian soundscapes. From the
hybrid origins of Pidgin, the language of Lagosian commuters, to the
political concerns in Fela Kuti's song and the pervasive influence of
Christianity and Islam, one notes in danfo and molue a confluence of the
triple heritage of African cultures described by Ali Mazrui in The
Africans; A Triple Heritage. They are representative of Mbembe's
afropolis. The whole danfo and molue "ambience," as featured in Ogboh's
soundscapes, emblematizes the hustle and bustle of modern life not only of
Lagos but of many post-colonial cities.
Passenger buses of the
danfo and molue class are not unique to Lagos. Most African cities share
similar public transportation systems promising similar travel experiences
to the commuter. For example, the Tanzanian transport system has the Dala
dala; Zimbabweans ride the battered Tshova; Congolese streets are teeming
with the noisy Fula fula; Ugandans and Kenyans pack themselves in the
claustrophobic Matatu. While in their physicality danfo and molue are
unique to Lagos, the multifarious sounds offer Ogboh a springboard to
explore issues of more widespread relevance.
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